Monday, September 15, 2008

Day 36 (08/13) - Hyder AK, Stewart, Prince George BC

Men and Women of Klondike

Leaving Stewart/Hyder this morning heading to Prince George, I plan to visit Jasper and Banff National Parks before going home. This is the beginning of my leaving Alaska Highway legacy and Klondike gold rush stories, at least for now.

Since the first time I entered Whitehorse a few weeks ago I continously to hear gold rush era stories told by trail guides and exhibitions in museums and visitor centers. The height of gold rush last only two years in 1898-1899 in the midst of depression but stories of men and women coming north to Klondike River seeking gold wealth has been told generation after generation for more than a century. Most men came to Klondike did not make fortune as they thought they would. Some lost their lives in harsh weather during hiking Chilkoot and White Pass trails or drafting down the rivers to gold field. Many went back south disappointed and broke.

As for women, on the contrary to the myth that most of them came to Klondike as prostitutes or dance hall girls, museum information and books suggest that women of Klondike came from all walks of life - wives, entrepreneurs and professionals. They endured the adverse environment, hiked the trails or worked in mine fields like men did. And like men, some of them made fortunes but most of them did not.

Every year numerous number of tourists comes to Alaska and Yukon, by sea or by land, to visit gold rush towns and listen to the gold seeker stories. It is not hard to see that the wealth made by modern travel industry re-telling gold rush history is greatly exceeds the gold that made by gold rushers who were willing to risk their lives for a century ago.
Came back from Fish Creek last night, I stayed in the campground operated by this Hyder Motel. It rained most of the night. I slept in my car that has a back seat converted single bed and window covers. It is still raining and I decide not to go back to Salmon Glacier for a second viewing.
9 o'clock in the morning, the town is still deadly quiet. As usual, before leaving town, I take a tour to the corners of the town where most tourists do not normally visit. Here, a horse gallops across the street passing my car.
Come to the end of the dirt road. This gravel road seems to lead to the foot of the mountain.
But I decide not to continue on fearing the sharp gravels may damage tires.
Come to a junk yard looks like auto grave yard. I am very sure the junked cars outnumber the population of the town. Where did these cars come from?
Someone still lives here ...
This is the place I had late dinner last night when I completed the auto tour around 9 o'clock. All shops and restaurants were closed in Hyder by then. I was able to get the last bowl of Seafood Chowder from this cafe while owner was cleaning up and closing for the day.
It is a bus-converted-cafe. I was so hungry. And that was the most delicious chowder I'd ever had.
This is the "best" section of the town. Most buildings look neat.
A Catholic church deserted.

The friendliest ghost town in Alaska - I wonder whether this is a ghost town by default or by choice.
The border monument at Stewart-Hyder border.


Leaving Stewart ... Continue southbound Cassiar Highway ...


still in the light rain and foggy mountain views.
I do not know what does this sign mean in Indian. But this place is Native reserve of Gitwangak. It has some authentic totem poles.

This is Gitwangak's St' Paul Anglican Church. Tourist brochure says the tower standing at right houses the original bell from 1893.

Passing Smithers along Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16), "a town of all seasons" as they call themselves. Take a reminder photo shot from a tourist guide.
Monument in downtown Smithers.
Beautiful Smithers downtown shopping area is very neat and clean with European character storefront.





No comments: